We love to eat in Paris.

Period.

Whether you buy your food in Paris at the local store, the farmer's market or a fancy restaurant, a little research will go a long way towards finding a food experience that matches your expectations and your budget.

To view our most recent recommendations and experiences about France and food, go to our blog at:  http://yellowflat.wordpress.com/.  You will find articles about eating and drinking great wines for reasonable prices on your trip.  The balance of this page focuses on restaurants.

Over the years Florence and I have had the fortune to eat in a wide variety of Parisian restaurants.  We try to find places that are local, reasonable and fun.  Since we have spent lots of time wandering our neighborhoods and the internet finding places to eat we would like to share some of them with you. So, here is a group of restaurants that we have loved both in and our of the neighborhood.  At the end of this list you will find some lengthier reviews following our recent trip in February 2009.  I hope you enjoy those as well.

A quick note on French service.  As American visitors to France we are often surprised by the lack of service. Waiters here professional and efficient at best, forgetful at worst.  At least there is no tip required although if above average a few euros are recommended.

On making reservations.  Simple advice, call up and do it.  Most of the restaurants we ate were full.  Some of these restaurants can be reserved on www.opentable.com.  A great service.  Other search engines that I find useful at fodors.com and gayot.com and if you speak some french try cityvox.fr. 

You can view a number of photos of Paris "eating" by going to the Eating in Paris photos page here on the site.

In the neighborhood of the Yellow Flat:

La Gitane,  53 bis, Avenue de la Motte-Picquet 01 47 34 62 92

In the style of Burgundian cooking, La Gitane offers very traditional bistro food and atmosphere.  Some might find it a bit old or stuffy but I loved the homage to the past. I  Had a very interesting version of stuffed cabbage, chou farci, not rolled as you might often find but in the shape of a large cake that was sliced across, very delicate.  Moderately priced.

Au Dernier Metro 70 Blvd. Grenelle 01 45 75 01 23

A rocking braserrie with a reasonable happy hour open until 2 am in the style of the SW basque country cooking. Very reasonably priced with a surprisingly good magret de canard.  Good for an informal meal and just blocks from the flat down Grenelle.

Le Pere Claude 51 Ave De La Motte-Piquet.  01 47 34 03 05.  Two blocks from the apartment.  Truly Parisian. Florence recommends the bouillabaisse.  Check out the photos on the wall you will see the crème de la crème of Paris politics.  Great open kitchen, moderate to expensive.  Service can be indifferent.

Café Commerce.  51 Rue de Commerce.. 01 45 75 03 27.  A classic brasserie with a very servicable raw bar.  Some dishes can feel a bit old, but the room is a knock out.  Don’t come looking for gourmet and stick to the classics and you won't be let down.  Wonderful collection of art deco posters on the wall and an easy walk.  Open past 10 and great for Sunday arrivals as so man restuarants are closed.  Moderate prices.

A bit of a walk or a short cab ride (and worth it!).

These three bistros represent what we like best about modern french cooking.  They won't break the budget, feature chefs that previously worked in three and four star establishments and went out on their own and are located close to the yellow flat.  One word of caution, all of these restaurants are small, that makes for a convivial atmosphere but close proximity to the next diners.

L’os A Moelle.    What makes this restuarant so good?  Good prices, great atmosphere and a good time.  A detailed review is below.

3 Vasco de Gama, 01 45 57 27 27.

Afaria. 

15 Rue Desnouettes 01 48 56 15 36. 

Afaria is the most trendy of the three bistros mentioned here and a reservation has become mandatory.  Can't miss:  the duck breast served on, yes, a roof tile.  A definite southern influence in the food.

Here is the NY times review:  http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/01/13/travel/13Bite.html

Buerre Noisette.

68 Rue Vasco de Gama 01 48 56 82 49. 

Daughter and I had a wonderful meal there in October centered around the largest veal roast I ever enjoyed in a restauarnt served in its copper baking dish and an incredible chestnut soup.   Want more reviews?

La Fontaine De Mars. 

129 Rue St. Dominique.  01 47 05 46 44. 

The Rue St. Dominique is one of the cutest in the 7th full of small gourmet stores and restaurants.  Le Fontaine de Mars is a classic French bistro that will take you back a hundred years, ask Michelle Obama.  A bit expensive.

Au Bon Accueil 114 Rue Monttessuy.  

01 47 05 46 11. 

A romantic meal near the Eiffel Tower:   We all think this place is a great deal with a  prix fixe at 35 Euro.  Very elegant room. The meal feels like it should cost a lot more. Very fine hand in the kitchen.  This is a treat but the menu can be a bit daunting.  Don't be shy and ask for an English version of the menu.

Crepes:  Ty Breiz 52 Boulevard de Vaugirard,

01 43 20 83 72. 

Classic Breton style crepes near the Gare de Montparnasse.  Olivia had, sigh, her last meal in Paris before returning home in December 2009 and walked out to a coating of fresh snow. 

L’ami Jean. 27 Rue Malar in the 7th.  01 47 05 86 89.  Bring the appetite.  Just across the Champ de Mars and a good ten to fifteen minute walk which you will be thankful for on the way home.  Great Basque food from the south of France.  Very loud room and lots of fun but be forewarned, a French speaker may be needed to talk full advantage this evening.

Outside the neighborhood.

One of our favorite bistros is L’epi dupin 11 Rue Dupin in the 6th.  01 42 22 64 56.  The signature plate is an appetizer, a clafouti with endive.  And it works.  And the prix fixe is a reasonable 32 Euro.  They have a formula and it can be a bit quick in the service.  Kind to Americans and a good choice for those just begining this adventure.

Best wine bar:  Au Sauvignon:  80 rue des Saints Peres, 01 45 48 49 02.
Simple.  Clean.  Good snacks and a great list.

For Moroccan Food we make the trek to 404 (that is the name) in the 3rd 06.130.96711.  If you are feeling like a long taxi ride but it is worth it for the combination of sublime cooking and a spectacular room.  You can get there on the metro, but the neighborhood is a bit complex so ask for directions.

Restaurant Mansouria 11 Rue Faidherebe, 11th 01 43 71 00 16. is the star of the Paris Moroccan cooking establishment.

Le Roi De Cous Cous.  Just Three blocks from the house on Blvd. Grenelle is the closest Moroccan restaurant to the Yellow Flat.  It is basic and food is decent.  A mixed grill (chop, kebab and merguez sausage with cous cous and vegetables costs E12 and is very filling.  While not a fine hand like 404 or Mansouria, it is close, filling and relatively inexpensive.  Food is available to go.  The cous cous itself is very fine.    If you have the time you can travel to many wonderful Moroccan restaurants in Paris, on the other hand, this is just down the street.

Lebanese:  Noura Montparnasse 121 bd de Montparnasse 6th 01 43 20 19 19.  There are several Noura’s in other neighborhoods as well.

A real piece of history:  Le Procope 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie, 6th.  01 40 46 79 00.  You will feel the revolution on the crooked stairs and see it in the documents and art on the walls.

Another classic brasserie is Flo 01 47 70 13 59.

For a great lunch experience try the gourmet food court at Gallerie Lafayette.  An amazing choice of restaurants and high end food purveyors such as Pedrosian Caviar have small outposts set up in this cramped but bustling court.  Not cheap.  You can tour the world in a matter of minutes but bring the wallet.  You will spend.

************

Februrary 2008.

In February 2008 we visited the Yellow Flat and found many new restaurants and refined our love of the Parisian bistro. You will notice that we eat at lots of bistros, they are affordable and almost always a good time.  Here are some lengthier reviews of bistros that we enjoyed this year.

The Bistro de Breteuil.  3 Place Breteuil.  1 45 66 98 88

This beautiful room has probably, well definitely, passed its prime and is not a gourmet food destination.  It is a bit of a throwback, a place to relax and enjoy classic French dishes prepared in a competent way and not to push the envelope.  The atmosphere is classic, crushed red velvet and oversized paintings abound.   And the prices are reasonable and when you let go of any gourmet snobbism you can have a great time.

So why did we have so much fun?  First and foremost they start the meal with a glass of champagne, a kir royale to be exact.  You are well advised to follow their formula approach, the key to this establishment.  For 36 euro you get the appetizer, main, dessert and a bottle of wine for every two people.  In this day of 1.40 euro to the dollar exchange meals like this are great value for American travelers. 

The menu is old school and when we tried more aggressive dishes (lobster parmentier a variation on the dish of ground meat and mashed potatoes which in this case looked and tasted like mashed potatoes with orange coloring or a crab artichoke fondue appetizer it failed). 

My mother in law understood the meal intuitively, she ordered oysters and duck breast.  How she can digest this at 86 is another question.
My main was really kind of sad, three tiny rouget (redfish) tossed on way over-cooked zucchini and an unknown cream sauce which arrived cold.  At Flo’s urging (in French of course) they were sent back and arrived in better shape, read warm. Florence’s choice of coquilles St. Jacques (scallops) fared much better.  The lesson here, again, keep it simple.

Desserts were serviceable, a nougat pastry, the stand by crepes with grand Marinier that burned for a good minute or two, not shy on the alcohol at all.  Service ranged from spotty to apologetic.

By the end of the evening we were chatting with our neighbors, including a pilot working from United who had taken her kids to Paris for two days and was teaching them how to eat, like old friends. 

All in all go to have a good time if you are in the neighborhood but don’t expect a refined approach.

Chez  Les Anges.  54 Blvd. La Tour Maubourg.  1 47 05 89 86.  www.chezlesange.com.

We have enjoyed eating at Au Bon Acqueil near the Eiffel Tower many times and were pleased to read that the same chef had taken over a bistro near Les Invalides on Blvd. Tour Marbourg and breathed life into this institution. 

From the moment you walk in you know that you are in the hands of owners who pay attention to detail.  The room is decorated impeccably in modern cool and somewhat Zen tones and for once in a bistro you can hear the people at your table easily even with a crowd.  As with most of the meals that we had this trip, the prix fixe menu of 34 euro allows you to afford an elegant meal at reasonable prices.

Small details are the pleasure here. On arrival you are served a plate of crudités, carrots radishes and small sauscison.  Before dinner there is an amuse a small glass of a cauliflower mousse, not too heavy and very refined.

Which brings to mind one point that makes these two bistros so wonderful, this chef can handle his vegetables, long a graveyard in French bistro cooking.  I had an amazing terrine of barely cooked vegetables full of goodies, very thin haricot vert, cauliflower and wrapped in a cabbage leaf.  All delicious.   

Florence had smoked salmon stuffed with mascarpone in a roulade which she enjoyed greatly.  For her main she ordered Cabillaud surrounded by winter vegetables; leeks and baby onions.  Cabillaud, formerly not a great fish in France, is making a comeback with current fish stocks dwindling fast.

For one reason or another I opted for duck but made a mistake ordering it well done.  Fear of raw meat just got to me I guess, next time moyen (medium).  It was served over cabbage with chestnuts. 

Thierry enjoyed a pave (steak) of bison which was absolutely fat free and not gamey at all. And in another nod to their former restaurants everyone had ramekin of their perfect mashed potatoes.
Desserts were artistic and innovative.  Especially good was the exotic fruit plate and the sorbets.  I had a reconstructed tarte tatin with pistachio ice cream.  Florence’s babha au rum had a wonderful orange sauce and was served with a shot of rum that she poured over it before we could grab it.

Wines were fun, a white and a red from Crozes Hermitage, both around E30.

When you want elegant Paris with bistro pricing E36 for the prix fix, you need to be here. With wine and water, look to spend E50.

La Villa Corse. 164 Boulevard De Grenelle.  01 53 86 70 81

What lies behind the red curtain?  La Villa Corse is located at 164 Boulevard De Grenelle, just a block up from the La Mote Piquet metro station and very close to the apartment.  La Villa Corse focuses on the cuisine of Corsica. Inside is a packed room of booths, dimmed red lighting and books.  Almost a gentlemen’s parlor of days past.   I expected to see animal head jutting out of the walls.

We arrived at 730 and by 8 the place was packed.  Florence and my mother in law started with and greatly enjoyed soupcon, a sort of young squid, very tender in a roasted tomatoe sauce.  I had 3 large raviolis stuffed with cepes in a mushroom cream sauce, a bit heavy handed.  Sister in law thoroughly enjoyed a gargantuan slice of foie gras.

My main was truly delicious, a generous portion of a baked Mediterranean fish called morue served over risotto with a balsamic vinegar reduction surrounding the dish.  Florence could not finish her risotto with Langoustines.  Portions were generous and flavors forward although just a touch salty.

No room was left for dessert.   Expect to spend over 50 euros a person.

L’ami Marcelle. 33 Georges Pitard. 01 48 56 62 06. www.lamimarcel.com.

Located almost at the southwest extreme of the 15th, walking into this tiny room, L’ami Marcelle is like stepping into a time capsule.  Run by a very efficient waiter/host/owner? and his somewhat lost but willing assistant, you step directly back to the 1960’s.  Maybe for that reason my mother in law loved this restaurant the most, she was in her element.

Florence and I enjoyed the salad marcelle a wild combination of mangoes, kiwis, shrimp and greens, almost California like.

Catherine had venison cooked slow and tender in a tangine and I enjoyed a delicate veal dish.

Highlight of the meal for the family, and not me, were the foie de veau, four large pieces of veal liver pan browned to crispiness. 

Desserts featured an insane Breton cake with a spice ice cream and zabigone over fruit for the rest of us.

The dinner was complimented a a glass of manaza a light white apple wine on the house.  By far our loudest evening.  We laughed hard.

L’os A Moelle.  3 Vasco de Gama, 01 45 57 27 27

This bistro was hands down the best meal of the trip.  There are a host of reasons why this somewhat out of the way room and its cousin wine bar across the street are packed every night.

The menu here is 36 euro, the difference here is that the tasting features five courses.  

I knew the meal would kick from the quality of the amuse.  A shot glass which contained an airy mousse of beet flowers pureed with cream two tiny slices of beets on top and most interestingly a spoon or two of falling apart rabbit stew on the bottom.  As you spooned up the rabbit it merged with the mousse creating a wonderful juxtaposition of flavors. 

Two soups were offered.  I opted for fish soup, usually dense and dark, here a light approach more like a consommé and topped with a garlic cream in the shape of a quenelle.  The cream melted in the first minutes again providing flavor contrasts that we just delightful.

Appetizers continued with a salad of Langoustine served with a celery remoulade.  Here the langoustine were poached to perfection, maintaining a balance of flavor and texture and avoiding the descent into rubbery stiffness.  Each bite melted.

For my main course I had four perfectly cooked scallops in the shell with endive.  This was nowhere near as good as the rouget that Florence enjoyed served over a puree of vegetables and beautifully presented.

The cheese course was simple a small slice of cheese from the farm with rocket salad. 
For desserts most of the table had a fruit salad served in plate of warm zabigone cream.
I had a chocolate  quenelle with saffron sauce that was too rich to finish.

For wines two Sanceres, one the well known white sauvignon (is it my imagination or are they becoming  softer?) and one red, a very well balance pinot noir.  Total 50E per person.

And the wine bar across the street is supposed to be just as good.  With bistros like this you can see why many chefs have abandoned the 3 and 4 star world and gone back to their neighborhoods to enjoy their lives.
If you are going to do one bistro meal this is the one not to miss.

If you are interested in leaving the neighborhood:

Chai 33

I was invited to lunch by my brother in law and he chose this relatively new group of restaurants in the 12th near Bercy called St. Emillion.  This is the former wine depot for the city of Paris and now it has been transformed into a group of restaurants and shops.  Chai 33 is a combination wine store and restaurant, a mix of old and new.  We enjoyed gnocchi prepared in a wok with mixed vegetables (they came our crisp and very good) and a simple green salad.  Service was a disaster with wine forgotten and then delivered to the adjoining table.

If you go to St Emillion check out the shop called la cure gourmadise, great cookies, caramel and candies sold in beau-art style packaging as well as the other shops in the area.